In This Guide
1 A Brief History of the Acoustic Guitar
The acoustic guitar's lineage stretches back thousands of years, through the Moorish oud, the Renaissance vihuela, and the baroque guitar. But the instrument we recognize today took shape in the early 19th century when Spanish luthier Antonio de Torres Jurado established the body proportions, fan bracing pattern, and construction methods that define the modern classical guitar. Torres' innovations gave the guitar enough volume and projection to be a serious concert instrument.
In the United States, German immigrant Christian Frederick Martin founded the C.F. Martin company in 1833, eventually developing the X-bracing pattern that allowed steel-string acoustics to handle greater string tension without collapsing the top. Martin's dreadnought shape, introduced in collaboration with the Ditson company in 1916, became the most popular acoustic guitar body style in the world and remains so today.
Gibson entered the acoustic market with the L-series archtop guitars in the early 1900s, and later introduced the round-shouldered dreadnought (the J-45) and the jumbo (the J-200). Other influential makers including Taylor, Guild, Yamaha, and Collings have expanded the range of available designs and construction techniques. Today, the acoustic guitar comes in more shapes, sizes, and styles than at any other point in its history.
Understanding the different types of acoustic guitars helps you choose the right instrument for your playing style, body size, and musical goals. Whether you are a fingerpicker who needs a responsive, articulate instrument, a strummer who wants booming volume, or a singer-songwriter who needs a guitar that sits perfectly in a vocal mix, there is an acoustic guitar designed specifically for your needs. If you are new to guitar shopping, our buying guide covers the fundamentals.
Pro Tip
The most important factor in an acoustic guitar's sound is the top (soundboard) wood and its bracing pattern. A solid wood top will always sound better and improve with age compared to a laminate top. When shopping, prioritize a solid top over every other specification.
2 Body Shapes and Sizes Explained
The dreadnought is the most common acoustic guitar shape, defined by its broad waist, squared shoulders, and large lower bout. Originally designed by Martin, the dreadnought produces powerful volume with strong bass response and balanced midrange. It is the standard choice for flatpicking, strumming, and bluegrass playing. Its bold voice cuts through a band mix easily, but the large body can be uncomfortable for smaller players.
The concert (0 and 00) and grand concert shapes are smaller-bodied instruments with a more focused, midrange-heavy tone. These guitars are ideal for fingerpickers and players who value articulation over volume. The reduced body size makes them comfortable for extended playing sessions and suits players with smaller frames. Taylor's Grand Concert shape and Martin's 00 and 000 models are benchmark instruments in this category.
The grand auditorium (sometimes called orchestra model) splits the difference between the dreadnought and concert shapes. It has a narrower waist and slightly smaller lower bout than a dreadnought, producing a balanced tone that handles both fingerpicking and strumming equally well. Taylor's Grand Auditorium, Martin's 000, and Gibson's L-00 are popular examples. Many players consider this the most versatile acoustic guitar shape available.
The jumbo shape is the largest standard acoustic body, producing massive volume with deep bass and sparkling highs. Gibson's J-200, with its ornate pickguard and mustache bridge, is the most famous jumbo. These guitars are favorites of singer-songwriters and rhythm players who want their acoustic to fill a room. Parlor guitars sit at the other extreme: small-bodied instruments with a vintage character, quieter volume, and a focused midrange tone that records beautifully. Parlor guitars have experienced a renaissance in recent years as players rediscover their intimate, characterful sound.
Pro Tip
If you plan to play primarily while sitting, bring a strap and try each guitar standing as well. Some body shapes that feel fine seated become unwieldy standing up. Grand auditorium models tend to be the most comfortable in both positions for the widest range of body types.
3 Tonewoods and How They Affect Sound
The top (soundboard) is the single most important piece of wood in an acoustic guitar. It vibrates in response to the strings and produces the vast majority of the guitar's audible sound. Sitka spruce is the most common top wood, prized for its excellent strength-to-weight ratio and broad dynamic range. It handles both light fingerpicking and aggressive strumming without compressing or distorting.
Cedar tops produce a warmer, darker tone with faster response and lower headroom. Cedar responds beautifully to a light touch, making it the preferred top wood for classical guitars and fingerstyle players. However, cedar can "max out" under heavy strumming, compressing the sound in a way that some players find limiting. Mahogany tops, found on guitars like the Martin D-15M and Gibson J-45, produce a dry, midrange-focused tone with a woody, vintage character that sounds fantastic in a mix.
The back and sides woods shape the guitar's overtone profile and projection. Rosewood (particularly Indian rosewood) adds bass depth, treble shimmer, and complex overtones. It is the most popular back-and-side wood for premium acoustics. Mahogany back and sides produce a drier, more focused sound with emphasized midrange, ideal for blues and singer-songwriter styles. Maple back and sides are bright, reflective, and projective, with less pronounced overtones that keep the sound clear and defined.
In recent years, sustainability concerns and CITES regulations have led to the adoption of alternative tonewoods. Ovangkol, sapele, walnut, and HPL (high-pressure laminate) are now common on mid-range instruments. Many of these alternatives sound excellent and offer their own unique tonal characteristics. Taylor's use of Urban Ash and other reclaimed woods has proven that responsible sourcing and great tone are not mutually exclusive. Do not dismiss a guitar based on unfamiliar wood species; trust your ears.
4 Steel-String vs Nylon-String Acoustics
Steel-string acoustics are the most popular type in Western music. They use bronze, phosphor bronze, or coated metal strings that produce a bright, loud, and harmonically rich tone. The higher string tension creates more volume and projection, and the narrower nut width (typically 1.69 to 1.72 inches) allows for chord shapes and barre chords common in pop, rock, country, folk, and blues. If you are unsure about which strings to use, light gauge (12-53) is a good starting point.
Nylon-string (classical) guitars use three wound bass strings and three plain treble strings made from nylon or fluorocarbon. The tone is softer, warmer, and more intimate than steel-string guitars. The wider nut width (typically 2 inches or more) and flat fretboard give each finger more room, which is essential for classical technique but can feel strange to players accustomed to steel-string spacing. Nylon-string guitars do not use truss rods in most cases, as the string tension is significantly lower.
A common misconception is that classical guitars are "easier" for beginners because the nylon strings are softer on the fingertips. While this is true, the wider neck and higher action typical of classical guitars can actually make standard chord shapes more difficult. If your goal is to play pop, rock, country, or folk music, a steel-string acoustic is the right choice. If you want to play classical repertoire, flamenco, bossa nova, or certain fingerstyle traditions, a nylon-string is the instrument you need.
Crossover or hybrid nylon-string guitars bridge the gap between the two worlds. These instruments combine nylon strings with a narrower neck profile (closer to steel-string dimensions), a cutaway for upper-fret access, and often a built-in pickup system. Players who want the warm nylon tone but prefer the familiar feel of a steel-string neck find these guitars invaluable. Yamaha's NTX and Cordoba's Stage and Fusion series are popular crossover options.
5 Acoustic-Electric Guitars and Pickup Systems
An acoustic-electric guitar is simply an acoustic guitar with a built-in pickup and preamp system that allows it to be amplified through a PA system or acoustic amplifier. If you plan to perform live, record directly into an interface, or play at jam sessions where you need to be heard over other instruments, an acoustic-electric is worth the investment. Most acoustic-electric systems add $50 to $200 to the guitar's price.
Under-saddle piezo pickups are the most common system. A thin strip of piezoelectric material sits beneath the bridge saddle and converts string vibration into an electrical signal. Piezo systems are reliable, resistant to feedback, and produce a bright, articulate tone that sits well in a live mix. However, critics describe the piezo sound as "quacky" or "plastic" compared to a miked acoustic tone. Modern preamps with onboard EQ help tame these characteristics.
Soundboard transducer (SBT) pickups attach to the underside of the guitar's top and capture the vibration of the entire soundboard rather than just the strings. These produce a more natural, wood-forward tone than piezos but are more susceptible to feedback at high volumes. Magnetic soundhole pickups sit in the soundhole and work like electric guitar pickups, producing a warm, slightly electric tone that blends well with effects. Many home recording setups use a combination of pickup and microphone for the most natural sound.
Dual-source and blend systems combine two pickup types (typically a piezo and a microphone or SBT) with a blend knob that lets you mix between them. These systems, such as Taylor's Expression System 2, LR Baggs Anthem, and Fishman Matrix Infinity, produce the most natural amplified acoustic tone available. They cost more and add complexity, but for serious performers, the tonal improvement is significant.
6 Buying Guide: Price Ranges and Recommendations
At the budget level ($150-$400), Yamaha dominates with the FG800 and FS800 (dreadnought and concert shapes), which offer solid spruce tops and impressive build quality for under $250. The Fender CD-60S, Epiphone DR-100, and Orangewood Oliver are other strong contenders. At this price, look for a solid top as your minimum quality threshold. Laminate-top guitars under $150 exist but rarely sound or feel good enough to sustain a beginner's motivation.
The mid-range ($400-$1,200) opens up dramatically in terms of quality and variety. Taylor's Academy and 100/200 series, Martin's Road Series and X Series, and Yamaha's L-Series bring solid construction, excellent playability, and professional-quality tone. This is where you start to find all-solid-wood guitars (solid top, back, and sides), which generally produce richer, more complex tones that improve with age. A $700-$900 all-solid guitar is often the sweet spot for serious players.
At the professional level ($1,200-$3,500+), Taylor's 300-800 series, Martin's Standard and Authentic series, Gibson's J-45 and Hummingbird, and Collings and Santa Cruz handmade instruments represent the finest production acoustics available. These guitars feature premium tonewoods, meticulous construction, and hand-voiced bracing that produces exceptional tone, projection, and responsiveness. The differences between a $1,500 and a $3,000 guitar are real but subtle, and both levels serve professional musicians well.
Do not overlook the used market. A well-cared-for acoustic guitar ages gracefully, with the top wood opening up and the tone becoming richer and more complex over time. A five-year-old Taylor or Martin at 40% off retail will almost always sound better than a brand-new guitar at the same price. Inspect for neck relief, fret wear, bridge lift, and cracks around the soundhole, and have a tech evaluate any used guitar over $500 before buying.
7 Care, Storage, and Humidity Control
Acoustic guitars are far more sensitive to environmental conditions than solid-body electrics. The thin, responsive top that gives an acoustic its beautiful tone is also vulnerable to changes in humidity and temperature. Solid-wood guitars are particularly sensitive. Maintaining proper humidity, between 40% and 55% relative humidity, is the single most important thing you can do to protect your investment.
In dry environments (below 35% humidity), the top can shrink, sink, and eventually crack. Fret ends may protrude as the fretboard shrinks. The action drops as the top flattens, causing buzz. In excessively humid environments (above 65%), the top swells and bellies upward, raising the action uncomfortably high. A case humidifier (such as the D'Addario Humidipak or Oasis) maintains safe humidity levels inside your case for pennies a month.
Always store your acoustic guitar in its case when not playing it. A good hardshell case provides insulation against temperature swings and contains the humidity from a case humidifier. If you keep the guitar on a stand for convenience, monitor room humidity with an inexpensive hygrometer and use a room humidifier or dehumidifier as needed. Avoid storing guitars near windows, heating vents, fireplaces, or exterior walls.
Clean the fretboard with each string change, using lemon oil or a dedicated fretboard conditioner for rosewood and ebony, or a damp cloth for maple. Wipe the body with a dry microfiber cloth after playing. Avoid spraying polish directly on the guitar; spray it on the cloth first. Check the neck relief seasonally and have the truss rod adjusted by a tech if needed. With basic care, a quality acoustic guitar will sound better every year for decades.
Pro Tip
If you notice your acoustic guitar's action changing dramatically between seasons, the cause is almost certainly humidity fluctuation. Invest in a case humidifier and a digital hygrometer before paying for repeated setups. Controlling humidity solves the root problem rather than chasing the symptoms.
Key Takeaways
- Acoustic guitar body shapes (dreadnought, concert, grand auditorium, jumbo, parlor) each produce distinct tonal characteristics suited to different playing styles
- The top wood is the most important tonal factor; always prioritize a solid top over laminate, even at budget price points
- Steel-string acoustics suit pop, rock, folk, and country; nylon-string guitars are for classical, flamenco, and bossa nova
- For live performance, dual-source pickup systems (piezo plus microphone) produce the most natural amplified tone
- Maintain 40-55% humidity with a case humidifier to prevent cracks, warping, and action problems in solid-wood guitars